Reinstall the left and right axles into the transmission. Be careful not to damage the seals. Reattach the mounting bracket for the intermediate shaft. Reattach the bracket to the intake manifold. Reinsert the axle ends into the wheel hubs.
Using the pry bar pull down on the control arm and slip the ball joint back onto the knuckle, I found the best way to do this was to lay down on the ground pulling down on the pry bar with one hand and maneuvering the knuckle into position with the other.
Secure the castle nuts. Insert new cotter pins. Reinstall the plastic splash guards. Put the wheels back on, lower the car back to the ground and torque the lug nuts. Do it NOW, you will forget later. Attach the right side upper engine to transmission mount. Refill the transmission fluid. Reattach the engine to transmission bolts.
If you removed the shift tower reinstall it now. Reattach the shifter cables. Attach the reverse switch connector to the top of the shifter tower and the coolant temperature sensor connector to the engine. Reattach the clutch slave cylinder. It will be harder to install than it was to remove. Just line up the slots with the notches, push real hard and turn.
Secure the nuts that hold the clutch slave bracket. Reinstall the ignition coil, ignition coil cable, and spark plug wires. Reinstall the battery tray, battery and PCM If removed Install the factory air box or intake. That should be it. Make one last look for any left over parts, disconnected wires you missed or anything else that might be wrong.
Get in the car and start her up! Pump the brake pedal until it regains pressure. Go for a test drive. Take it easy for the first miles or so to allow the friction disk time to bed against the flywheel.
You have changed your clutch! Chris,it looks like there's a grey brick jammed between the cradle and chassis. Do you have to loosen that cradle bolt to get enough room,or is it optional?
I was wondering about that cradle thing too. You also need to clarify which engine transmission mounts you're talking about. I think part of the confusion arises from different terminology.
Haynes, Chiltons, the Saturn FSM and various online postings all refer to these parts with different names. As a result I have made some modifications ot the above document. These instructions should not be considered a stand alone document and should be used in conjuction with an FSM, Haynes, or Chiltons manual.
It connects the transmission to one of the two 'dogbone' style motor mounts. This mount is a rubber block located on the far end of the transmission housing on the drivers side. That should clear up any confusion on the motor mounts. As for the 'aligning the cradle' issue. I think that is confusion resulting from exactly which bolts are being removed.
There should be no need to 'realign' anything other than getting the holes to match up to put the bolts in. It may be slightly confusing to read it if you are unfamiliar with that part of the car but it is crystal clear when you are lying on your back looking up at it. Thanks Chris. But is it still needed to place a brick between the cradle and chassis? Can you still get enough room without messing with cradle bolts?
I found the transaxle can be moved and enough room without removing the cradle on a '91 SL. You just have to cock it and jack the motor a bit to give clearance to remove the clutchplate. I probably could have gotten away with leaving the shifter tower in place also. YMMV as always. Chris,this is what I mean. It looks like a grey walkway brick about 4 inches high. Oh, over there on the right? I didn't even see that at first.
That is actually Lanes engine and not mine. I don't know why he used a brick but he was probably doing other repairs at the same time as the clucth.
Notice the strut and brake hardware are also missing. I included this picture in the how-to because it seemed to illustrate the concept better than mine did. In my picture the tranny is covered with gunk and it is hard to make out against the background of the wheel well. This picture also clearly shows the shift tower still attached which I thought was important to illustrate. Hmmm, maybe I should crop that photo to get rid of the brick.
I can't even tell what he disconnected to get that brick in there. This picture is the exact same thing as Lane's but it shows the brake hardware and strut still attached as well as all the dirt.
The white thing on top is a paper towel I stuffed into of the hole where the shift tower was to keep the dirt out. Thanks Chris! That makes it seem more "doable" if I ever had to even try the procedure. Notice how much more wiggle and work room you have if you remove the strut attached to the knuckle as an assembly after popping out the balljoint stud and tierod end?
For the little extra effort, your right, pull the strut!! But, I found I made a mistake removing the torsion bar!! Got it back on ,but, it's a back breaker to reinstall!! FYI, I have updated steps 23 and Again the document itself lives here.
Once that is done usually by simply slightly twisting the entire transaxle forward and back while gently but firmly pushing it toward the engine it will sit right there tight against the engine and let you put the bolts in. These customers have agreed to allow us to publicly display their testimonials. We know buying anything online is a risk. Once again, we wish we could just show you the entire manual before you buy, but our publishing agreement with the auto manufacturers prevents this.
We'll get you the repair information you need, every time, or your money back. Manufacturer: Saturn. Model: Ion. Production Year: Step by Step Instructions. Comprehensive Diagrams. Diagnostic Procedures. Wiring Diagrams. It would probably be a good idea to lift them up out of the way as much as possible. String or zip ties work well. If your going to install an engine support from above do so now. This should be everything that needs to be done from the top of the car.
Jack up the car and use jack stands. A good 15 to 18 inches should suffice. Make sure the car is secure. You will need to exert a lot of force on the car from underneath. Drain the transmission fluid. If your going to support the engine from below do so now.
Again make sure your supports are sturdy and can handle you tightening bolts from underneath. With the 30mm long socket remove the drivers side axle nut. If you try to use a short socket you will round off the nut.
Sears, Autozone, and Advance Auto did not carry this. You may find that you need some penetrating oil to loosen up the rust. If you have had work done on the car by a professional mechanic they probably put this on with a air tools. My right side was much tighter than the left side Use a long breaker bar to get the leverage needed. Wedge a pry bar between the wheel lugs and the floor to stop the wheel from moving. There is an excellent picture in your Haynes manual that shows this.
Remove the ball joint cotter pin and throw it away. Loosen the castle nut as much as you can, you will need the 18mm box wrench. It is unlikely the nut will come off all the way as the axle will be in the way.
Wedge a large pry bar the larger the better between the vehicle frame and the front sway bar and pull down, hard. At the same time smack the ball joint with a hammer. Eventually the ball joint will pop out of the knuckle. When it does remove the castle nut and separate the ball joint from the knuckle. DO NOT use a pickle fork or ball joint separator, as you will damage the rubber seal. If you tear the seal you will need to replace the whole piece. Remove the plastic mud shields from inside the wheel well.
Twist the knuckle, with the brakes attached, out of the way so that you can pull the axle free. To get the axle separated will take a bit of twisting and turning. Use a pry bar on the left side axle at the point where it enters the transmission.
Take care not to damage the seals. Pry between the case and the inner constant velocity joint. Pull the axle out the transmission and remove from the car.
Again refer to your manual for some excellent photos. The passenger side is similar except that there are three bolts that hold the intermediate shaft bracket to the engine along with one bolt that holds the intake manifold support. Remove these four bolts and you should be able to remove the intermediate shaft along with the axle. Some people say that you need to separate the axle and intermediate shafts but I did not find this necessary. Once that is done usually by simply slightly twisting the entire transaxle forward and back while gently but firmly pushing it toward the engine it will sit right there tight against the engine and let you put the bolts in.
Reinstalling the intermediate shaft into the bolted up transaxle takes all of about 5 extra minutes, add another 10 and you'll have the right axle back on as well Remove the transmission to frame mount. This mount is a rubber block located on the far end of the transmission housing on the drivers side.
There are two bolts that hold the mount to the transmission and one nut accessed from underneath that secures the mount to the frame. At the area where the engine bolts to transmission, remove the two bolts holding the support bracket to the transmission. Remove the three bolts holding the tin shield inspection cover to the transmission. Remove the two lower engine to transmission bolts. These two can be hard to locate, there is one near the front and one near the back of the engine and they face different directions.
They are large 15mm? Now the only thing holding the trans in should be gravity and two locating dowels. This takes turning and tweaking the transmission from below usually the best way. Once the trans is in the opening it will rest there very nicely if you have it jammed in well enough giving you just enough room to get to the clutch and remove that. Note: In this photo the shift tower is still attached. Also note that the strut and brake assembly have been removed.
This is the same step but with the strut and brake hardware still attached. The clutch is secured by six small bolts around the outer edge.
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